Around Argentina now I’m blogging again…
I’ve been procrastinating blogging because I’ve not been too sure how to approach a description of life in Argentina. I’m trying to avoid my typical “describe my day” blogging because, despite the fact that Buenos Aires is a fascinating place that is very very different from New York, I’ve lived here for a month. That means, of course, that one inevitably settles into a routine: it’s not all going to museums and walking around cool neighborhoods. And as much as I’m sure my readers want to know about how I go to the gym, grab lunch with my roommates, read in coffee shops and parks, and play poker during the day, I can’t help but think that an Argentina trip report should avoid the pitfalls of “same shit different place” blogging.
So, well aware that I haven’t eased the reader into my life in BA and that most of these points below probably should have been their own blog post, I’m going to just list some random observations/stories/things I’ve done.
-My first few days in Buenos Aires the internet was insufferably slow. Logging into gmail took 10 minutes, poker playing was impossible, etc. Given that we rented a nice penthouse apartment in Recoleta (one of the nicer neighborhoods), this was maddening. We called up our leasing agent and he said he would send in a specialist first thing in the morning. The “specialist” that showed up was the same handyman that had been fixing the sink when we checked in. He showed up with a list of things to do, turned off the modem and router (which I believe my roommates and I had futilely done 10 times a day), and left. The internet was, of course, no better and we eventually figured out that it was a router problem, got a new router, and had perfect internet the rest of the trip.
This was definitely symptomatic of what Thomas Friedman would call the “All that glitters is not gold” theory of Buenos Aires: it is a modern city that, due to its nice architecture, European-heritage citizenry, upscale shopping areas, and fine dining can easily trick you into forgetting you’re still living in an impoverished 3rd-world nation. So you walk around and see Hermes and Armani stores right around the corner from your posh Recoleta apartment and forget that when the internet goes down they send a plumber to try and fix it.
- Another example of this Friedmanesque theory: we met an ex-pat from Boston who moved down to BA to open a hostel. He said that he spent a year and a half trying to run the hostel but that after a while it was just impossible: corruption was so rampant that he was constantly being shaken down by one inspector or another and it was just impossible to keep the place open. If you’re not from Argentina and you try opening a business it’s almost impossible to avoid this kind of problem. He was telling us this at “Alamo,” an ex-pat bar that is filled to capacity almost every night from 10:00-4 a.m. There’s a line to get in by 10:30 every day, which is insane given that people don’t really start going out and getting drunk until well after midnight. This guy was telling us that he knows the owner of the place and that even though it’s been open for years, the owner’s struggling to keep the doors open. Looking around you would assume the guy was raking in dough, but instead he’s struggling to stay afloat.
This gave me a strong example of how it is that government incompetence/corruption contributes to the widespread poverty of a city/nation: if the owner of one of the most popular bars in the city can barely make any money and if to even reach that level of success you have to wait six months for your business license to be approved, spend years to build up your company, and then constantly worry about bribing people, why would you bother trying? When it’s so hard for foreign investors to bring business into BA, there’s obviously going to be fewer jobs to be had and less wealth generated.
-I went to Punta del Este, a beach town in Uruguay, for my birthday. My roommates and I decided rent a car and drive there. A woman at the car rental place warned us that we had to cross at Colon instead of Gualeguaychu (which would add at least 2 hours to the drive) because the bridge crossing at Gualeguaychu was closed due to some dispute between Argentina and Uruguay. The guy at the counter insisted that this was false and that we should just go to Gualeguaychu. He says he’d just heard in the morning that the bridge was open. Obviously when we got there the bridge was closed and we were an hour and a half out of our way, and what was supposed to be a 6 hour drive turned into an 11-hour trek.
I love that, whatever minor squabble Argentina and Uruguay were engaged in, it wasn’t serious enough for them to totally close off the border: they were just mad enough at each other to make people trying to go from country to country have to suffer a 5 hour delay. Once in Punta del Este, we talked with many Uruguayans and Brazilians and they pretty much all told us that the consensus is that Argentinians are cocky assholes. There’s a lot of resentment towards Argentinians because they think they’re better than everybody else, so I’m sure whatever “conflict” led to the closing of the bridge was some ridiculously trifling nonsense.
-For what it’s worth, I’ve found most Argentinians to be extremely pleasant. Except among for the very wealthy, English is barely spoken but whenever I’ve been able to have a conversation with an Argentinian person, they’ve been inordinately nice. Then again, the complaint is that Argentinians are cocky and arrogant, so maybe they just relate to Americans. The “real recognize real phenomenon” as Friedman would label this affinity if he knew anything about gangster rap.
-I’m flying out to Thailand later today. There’s a tattoo festival in some Buddhist temple (Wat Bang Phra) outside of Bankgok where every year some monks give holy tattoos that they think ward off evil spirits. I’ve always said I would never get a tattoo and I’m not a particularly spiritual man, but I think this is too cool to pass up. The clientele is supposedly a mix of rich celebrities (Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt types) and Thai underworld kingpins. So I’m going to go to Thailand for 4 or 5 days, swing by this festival, and then fly out to Italy where I’m probably going to meet up with Team Israel for a month of travel.
Unfortunately, that means I have to pack up all my stuff and I might not have time to finish my Buenos Aires recap before I have to leave. The post was getting a bit long anyway, so I guess it’s good to break it up some